Doubtless everyone is aware that there are good bugs
and bad bugs. Just like the witches in The Wizard of Oz.
There are lots of beneficials that pollinate our gardens and
and bad bugs. Just like the witches in The Wizard of Oz.
There are lots of beneficials that pollinate our gardens and
EAT
the bad bugs.
the bad bugs.
But, do you know how to attract them and KEEP them in your garden?
Aphids and earwigs and thrips, oh my!!
Allowing aphids and their buddies to feast on your plants is inviting disease,
a sure potential for a lower yield, and puts all other plants in the vicinity at risk.
Most bad bugs suck.
Many of these 'sucking' insects (in both senses of the word) can
transmit disease by leaving wounds on the plants where diseases can enter easily, their feeding and sucking will weaken the plant so it is more susceptible to disease, and are also often carriers
(called vectors) of diseases.
One sure way to keep your plants healthy and to keep insect predators at bay is to have
an army of very hungry, very diligent good bugs on staff.
an army of very hungry, very diligent good bugs on staff.
The beneficial / predatory insects work for cheap around the clock,
hunting and searching for something to eat.
They cost you nothing.
They cost you nothing.
Spraying pesticides, which does cost money, is not necessary and I promise you that
100% of the time, you are going to miss a few bad bugs. Those you miss will be only too
100% of the time, you are going to miss a few bad bugs. Those you miss will be only too
happy to procreate and keep on wreaking havoc.
Spraying pesticides is also indiscriminate and will kill the
beneficial insects, too. The pesticide house doesn't just land on the bad witch.
An interesting side note that no doubt reflects trending public opinion on neonicitinoids is that
the Minnesota Department of Agriculture
has issued new statutes regarding labeling of plants.
Any plants advertised as being beneficial to insects or useful in attracting beneficial insects
MUST NOT have been treated with neonics.
Be sure to check this, as neonics are systemic, meaning they also harm
the beneficials visiting that plant.
Spraying pesticides is also indiscriminate and will kill the
beneficial insects, too. The pesticide house doesn't just land on the bad witch.
An interesting side note that no doubt reflects trending public opinion on neonicitinoids is that
the Minnesota Department of Agriculture
has issued new statutes regarding labeling of plants.
Any plants advertised as being beneficial to insects or useful in attracting beneficial insects
MUST NOT have been treated with neonics.
Be sure to check this, as neonics are systemic, meaning they also harm
the beneficials visiting that plant.
If you have been following the newsletters, you've heard a lot about beneficials.
If you have been coming out to Gracie's Plant Works, you've seen the
signs and the plants we suggest for attracting beneficials to your garden.
We have been practicing this method of pest management for several
years and know it is effective.
We have been practicing this method of pest management for several
years and know it is effective.
This is a photo of the impossibly tiny aphid midge Aphidoletes Aphidimyza.
It looks like it has just landed on Mars, but it is sitting on top of a bed of the finest,
tiniest vermiculite particles I've ever seen.
tiniest vermiculite particles I've ever seen.
They were released in the greenhouse last spring to prevent an aphid infestation.
Greenhouses, by providing heat, moisture, and baby plants with their
tender bits and new growth are irresistible to aphids, thrips,
mites, whiteflies, and fungus gnats.
BUT. What they lack in size is more than made up by their appetite.
And it worked. We didn't see an aphid in the entire growing house this spring.
We only heard the aphidoletes saying "I'll get you, my pretty!"
A common organic integrated pest management (IPM) strategy
is to plant 'banker' plants in greenhouses. These plants, typically barley,
play nursery to the beneficial insects and are released into
organic greenhouses to control pests.
This same method
will work for our outside gardens if we provide habitat for
beneficial insects and attract them to our yard.
Several plants that are great attractors of beneficials:
- Sweet Alyssum
- Borage
- Anise Hyssop
- Daisies
- Fennel and Dill
- Corn
- Bachelor's Buttons
Providing food, shelter, and water are important in making our 'guests' comfortable.
Another way to attract and retain bees is to supply habitat in the form of nesting boxes.These nesting boxes mainly attract Mason bees, a very docile and non-stinging type.
The USFWS is considering adding the Monarch butterfly to the endangered
species list. The Monarch's main food supply, milkweed, is being wiped out with
the widespread use of Roundup/glysophate. While Monsanto urges everyone to
'pay no mind to that man behind the curtain', certainly other beneficial insects are suffering
due to loss of habitat, too.
Monarchs, incidentally the state butterfly of Minnesota, are also susceptible to weather, predation, and loss of habitat in their wintering grounds in Mexico. They are particularly vulnerable because the grand majority of the remaining population overwinters in the same area, and a
catastrophic event could wipe out the entire colony.
So, if we gardeners can provide beneficial insects as a whole and these regal butterflies
safe haven and a source of food, we'll be doing our part to help them rebound.
While we're all busy planning the spring planting, let's save some room
for some plants that will be beacons to our beneficials.
Plant some beneficial insect-attracting plants and you'll have a healthy population of
good bugs sticking around because
"There's no place like home"
Happy Gardening,
Kathy and Patty
An observation and a comment: Last summer, I did not see one cabbage moth all summer, nor had any aphids (for once!!). BUT, I also did not see one lacewing, maybe three real lady bugs and only two or three large bumblebees.
ReplyDeleteWhat I DID have were at least seven different kinds of wasps and bees. Not sure if I have Mason bees, but anything that flowered was mobbed since, if they were not gathering pollen and nectar, they were eating the hordes of flies!
With all the buzzing and humming, it was a noisy garden, with limited return. Lousy weather does not help!
I am bracing myself for the aphid and cabbage moth return this year, hoping it doesn't happen.
Since I grow many different herbs and all kinds of flowers that bees and butterflies would like (all but two on your list, plus), and try to put companion plants together (hard in a small space!), what else can I do to attract "good bugs"?
Hi and thanks for your comment!
DeleteAs long as you companion plant, rotate crops, and plant beneficial insect attracting plants, it's probably not necessary to brace yourself for aphids and cabbage butterflies next summer. Be sure to inter-plant your cabbage with sweet alyssum to repel the cabbage butterflies. You can also inter-plant dill with your cabbage to further bolster the insect population that prey on the cabbage loopers.
The mix of beneficials will depend on many factors, but not seeing a lacewing doesn't mean you're doing something wrong. The populations of beneficials are sure to fluctuate from year to year, and perhaps what you planted was more appealing to other species. Two summers ago I had tons of ladybugs, this past summer, not so many. But, still no insect problems.
Small space gardening can be a challenge, but if you are already growing lots of herbs, then inter-plant the herbs with your veg. Herbs typically repel insect pests with their essential oil content, and don't require a lot of room to grow. You could also plant your veg in small blocks (as opposed to in rows or all in one location of your small garden) which serves to confuse the insects. They may find one cabbage, but not all of them, for example. Honestly, though, since I have planted the alyssum in between my brassicas (broccoli, kale, cabbage etc) I haven't had insect problems with any of them.
And, obviously, if you are using any pesticides, I would recommend you stop unless it's your absolute last resort to save a crop.
It sounds like you are already doing a fabulous job with your IPM plan (integrated pest management). There have been several posts on the blog about companion planting, including a nice chart, as well as suggestions of several PERENNIALS, not just annuals, that attract beneficials. If you peruse the posts, you'll come up with many suggestions that have been mentioned. If you are not finding specifically what you need, I am happy to help. If you live in or near Ely, you could stop out to GPW and I'll help you in person. You could also place pots of flowering annuals in amongst your veg, or make a border around your garden with the flowering plants that attract beneficials.
You are right, last summer didn't provide great growing conditions, but that's the beauty of gardening....it's never boring, right? And you learn something every year to add to your cache of knowledge.
Wonderful post! I have seen a lot of bloggers and sites try and give some of the info you did, but you gave wayyyy more information about a lot more bugs. That helps me to no end! I really appreciate it, especially with gardening season just getting ready to start.
ReplyDeleteXO,
Christine
Thanks, Christine! We really believe that IPM and using biological control instead of pesticides is the best way to prevent and control insect infestations. Nice to see your name this morning :-) TTYL
DeleteXO,
Kathy